8/17/2006 (Thr) - Mosquito Creek Campground, 65.36 miles.

In terms of difficulty, today was a little easier than yesterday. It's a little easier since while the cumulative gain was probably in the same range as yesterday (3000-4000 feet), the net gain in elevation is almost 0 feet today (as compared to about 2000 feet yesterday). Details aside, today I do feel much better than yesterday. My knee is feeling much stronger, and I feel no trace of any spasms. I am thankful....

I left camp a little after 7 p.m. The couple visiting the parks along the way to their daughter in Vancouver also woke up early. They wished me best of luck and took a picture of me and my loaded bike. The wife also took a picture with me. After riding off, I regretted not using an opportunity of the picture to exchange emails. They were a nice couple I wouldn't mind getting to know better...

The scenary today was great, like yesterday. I also saw a huge elk close up in the early morning. Coming down the pass from the Columbia Icefields was also very thrilling. I soaked in many glaciers and many river views. The ride became much tougher after a lunch break at an establishment (where I spent about $11 for breakfast) across Glacier Lake Trailhead. After crossing the Howse River, the climb up Bow Pass started in earnest. I stopped many times, too often eyeing the many swichbacks still to come in front of me....

The reward for going up the long climb is another short climb to a scenic outlook, requiring a short .5 mile hike, of Peyto Lake. After the short sojourn there, I'd ride a short descent, pass Bow Lake, and finally ride into Mosquito Campgrounds. Along the way, I passed a young couple riding destined for Mosquito Hostels. They were the first young couple I saw biking loaded in the parks.

Mosquito Campground was a nice but big campground. A river ran lazily around the camp area. Bear hanging contraptions were offered instead of standard bear lockers. Sheila, the camp manager, met me as I came in. She strongly persuaded me to take a smaller, but secluded, space at the entrance; saying how much of a waste it would be for me to take a larger site. While I didn't like that tone (since I am still expected to pay the same as everyone else), I acquiesced. She later brought me a nice cold ice lemon tea for cooperating. As it turned out, I would pay less for staying at the site, but for different reasons. A lady hiker called Leslie would offer to share the site with me, each paying half ($7) of the normal fees.

Leslie is on a big hiking trip which includes backpacking as well as big day hikes. She was to start a short backpacking trip in Jasper later this week. Meeting Leslie would prove fateful for my trip. When I asked her whether it'd be worth it for me to stop by Banff to hike, she asked me that depended what "I was looking for." That quesiton, "what am I looking for," would quickly reverberate throughout my trip. What am I looking for out of this trip?

Weather has been great so far. Here is best wishes that this would keep up! There is no phone at this campsite (surprising considering it is a major campsite close to a major destination, Lake Louise. Bummer.