8/19/2006 (Sat) - Hootos Mountain Resort, 68.66 miles.

I am thinking about cutting the trip short - perhaps ending as early as in a couple of days once I get to Whitefish. Hereis my problem: the answer to Leslie's question "what am I look for" is that I don't know; but the idea of listening to smelling traffic and not being about to meaningfully hike - while toiling away all the same - is not it.

Today's ride wasn't that great. First, the view wasn't as spectacular as the last few days. Part of the reason is that there was a persistent haze in the air. The other problem is the traffic. It's not that the traffic is much worse, but rather that it all of a suddenly hit me that I want to enjoy the sensory experience of biking - not just the elevation of proving myself. Having to put on earplugs, while ok acceptable during the Pacific Coast trip, just doesn't cut it now. I remember that during my Colorado mountain biking rip, the thing I least enjoyed about the trip was biking on the 8 or so miles on the road to Dillon Reservoir. I should have realized that after enjoying the peaceful and quiet of mountain biking, my road touring days are numbered. The traffic really would break my biking rhythm as well as my sensory experience. I could try to tune out, but what is the point of biking when part of the goal is to tune in with your environment?

Anyways, going back to today's ride: the morning started out ok but not great. It wasn't great because the typical crystal clear morning view was somewhat dimmed by the haze. I was also troubled by my clothing: it was either too cold or too hot. I also had to put on earplugs, not because there was a continuous stream of traffic, but even periodic traffic, when travelling at 70 or so mph, can be annoying enough to warrant earplugs.

The ride started in earnest when we turned from the Kootenay River to climb the Sinclair Pass. The climb was less than 1600 feet - which is only about what Santa Ana was from the base, but I nevertheless (because of the weight?) had to rest several times.

The descent to Radium Hotsprings (a drop of some 2000 ft) was exhilerating, but the fun was partly dampened by the periodically narrow shoulders and heavy traffic. On the way down, I saw 2 Bighorn sheep right by the side of the road next to the Sinclair Creek.

The ride from Radium Hotsprings through Invermere ranks among my worst biking experience ever - on par with yesterday's climb out of Castle Junction. It was hot and noisy, and the shoulder was narrow and strawn with debris. At Invermere, I met a very hard headwind. I dropped by a cycle rental place right as I entered into town to ask whether there might be any camping in town. The guy behind the counter told me to just bike on and pitch a tent in the forest anywhere along the way.... He gave me a map of the area and suggested I explore the town while I was there. Upon leaving, I accidentally scraped and made a little hole in the B.O.B. bag as I negotiated my bike among a wooden bench. :-(

Interestingly, an example of how quickly things can turn in a bike trip, the ride from Invermere on West Side Road to the Fairmont Hot Springs area rank among my best experience of the trip. The section featured rolling hills, was quiet, and offered period views of Windmere Lake. The only complaint I have regarding that section of the ride was a hard persistent headwind over much of the 18 or so miles. Nevertheless, I enjoyed peddling and listening to nature as well as my own rhythm of biking as I climbed. This was almost like mountain biking on secluded fire roads!

I don't know what I'll do with this trip. I'll take a few more days to consider. Right now, my body feels good except for a slight tingling on my left foot (same as Pacific Coast). I think I need to adjust my left cleats so my nerve doesn't get pinched so much.

On one last note, it's been 3 hard days ago since I last got a warm shower. It was a great lexury today to get one at Hootoos Mountain Resort. The manager here told me they no longer do tents and recommended me to go elsewhere. After a few more minutes, he changed his mind, and told me that since I was on a bike and looked like a "nice guy," he'd make an exception for me provided I gave him $20 cash. I did, and the site he gave me was spacious and nice.