7/22/2003, Honeyman State Park to Sunset Bay State Park, 57.94 miles

Today seemed to have passed without much impressions. We started peacefully along rolling, bushy terrains, getting glimips of sand dunes along the way. Later we took a detour to see Umpqua Lighthouse - the first one built in the Oregon territories. Then it was more rolling terrain riding until we got to Coos Bay Bridge.

Sis had ridden ahead and had decided to walk across (so had, we'd later find, a couple from Wyoming with whom we had shared camp the last couple of days). I, however, foolishly decided to ride across. The first half of the bridge had only an average uphill grade, but the wind, lack of a real ridable shoulder, and the heavy traffic made the riding a bit tricky. Then when I was almost at the top (midway through) of the bridge, I suddenly heard a series of emphatic, loud horns. A check with me mirror confirmed my worst fears: a train (5 or so) of fast approaching trucks that showed no hints of slowing! There was no room for the trucks to pass since there was a constant stream of opposing traffic. I stopped and leaned as far right as I could. The trucks passed, but then came the R.V.'s - and more cars. Finally, it was all clear. I cranked up the gear and rode as hard as I could down the remainder of the bridge.

The ride through North Bend and Coos Bay were among my worst experience of the entire trip. The traffic was consistently heavy, the shoulders narrow, the wind gusty, and the air dusty.

Sunset Bay is a good respite after such a day. I hiked along rugged ocean cliffs and visited the botanical gardens. For dinner, we had a tuna, mushroom soup, and ramen combo.